Serbia and Bulgaria 2017 part 2

We saluted this half sleeping trail veteran waiting patiently outside the flea market and we got back on the road. Unlike this guy, we got easily lost at a juction just a few km further. The directions on google maps were confusing for me because of nearby road reconstruction but the truth is I should have kept my eyes at least half open and notice the road signs. 

My travel mate Christos, was not too pissed about that so my confidence as a navigator was not severely damaged. Once outside the urban environment, the joy of motorcycling is instantly doubling. I felt as if the Serbian countryside was trying to seduce the newcomers by displaying its most fancy Autumn outfit under the glorious sunshine. The deciduous canopy spread a pallete of green, brown, red, yellow, orange and all intermediate shades, merging together in an orgy of interacting colors. It is definately the best time of the year to visit Serbia on a motorcycle. 
The road from Nis to Zajecar was well paved and divinely curved by several hills of low altitude while the warm and dry asphalt felt quite safe for game. Soon, my growing romantic mood gave way to my thirst for adrenaline and before I knew it I was diving into the bends like a maniac. My instict was telling me I should not give in to temptetion completely, considering my accident exactly a year ago. I still have nightmares about this old Fiat Punto coming out of the blue and smashing my left side after ignoring a stop sign, resulting into the almost total destruction of my late BMW F800 GS and my left knee which still suffers minor annoyance and pain. But you simply can't turn a blind eye at the "Monica Bellucci" of country roads lying at your feet and winking at you. 

Passing outside Zajecar, which was located half the way to our destination (Donji Milanovats), the scenery gradually changes. We met more and longer straits so we switched back to cruise mode. My 690 Enduro R was performing very well so far. I have to admit that I had a few concerns besides the seat comfort, coming from reviews and reported issues online. I used the low carbon front fender for better stability and it worked just fine until the max speed of 160 km per hour. Vibrations on the grips were evident from the beggining of the trip when reaching speeds above 100 kph but somehow passed unoticed after the 2nd day on the road. I probably got used to them and didn't feel bothered anymore. The Mitas E07 on the rear wheel is brand new and provides excellent traction, copes very well with the load on the bends while the front Karoo 3 still had a lot of km's on it's life span and was quite credible when braking hard. Every 1000 km's or so I had to add a little engine oil. Besides that, the bike is light and playful and a real joy to ride both on tarmac and offroad but especially on trails it shines like a superstar. 

It is early afternoon now and we pass through the woods of Djerdap National Park . The scenic road leads to the first sight of the Danube river, its calm  waters revealed in absolute glory as we descent from the last hill. The most varied ecosystem in Europe has many charms to offer to visitors. For our taste, cruising along the bank is topping the list. It is Saturday afternoon and the hordes of local bikers stream in from the North. It  We took a short break by the river bank and headed to our overnight shelter, the magnificent Etno Kompleks Kapetan Mišin Breg .
My controversial relationship with google maps had yet another episode of confusion. What seemed like a swift shortcut on the phone screen ended up a steep trail through the woods. My KTM couldn't be more happy about that but my friend Christos  struggled hard trying to avoid deep holes on the ground and large stones in various spots. His ZZR came out of the trail like a boss without a single scratch on the lower fairing to my relief. Once we entered the lodge we agreed to add another overnight and rectified our tour plan. The breathtaking scenery and hospitality we found there left no margin for doubt.